Though quite simple, this color combination is not common and has an elegant effect. Jia Jiajia is a travel agent born in Beijing. She now lives around Wudaokou though she prefers the Gulou area for shopping. While acknowledging that the Olympics are a source of pride, she bemoans the loss of much of Beijing’s original character to make way for modern construction projects, mainly malls and high-rises.
Add comment August 7th, 2008
Co-creative director of Le Divan, Australian designer Tony Hua thinks most Beijing men wear oversized clothing and ensembles that don’t match in color or proportion. He recommends that men choose a style and stick with it rather than trying to mix and match too much. Most local men would benefit from wearing basic colors like black and white and steering clear of patterns, logos, and advice-giving girlfriends, whose tastes are often highly suspect. Le Divan’s shop will be opening soon at Soho Shangdu.
1 comment August 6th, 2008
The August issue of The Beijinger is out. For this Olympics issue, my Trouser Press column makes recommendations for attire to be worn while attending events and parties. Since you can see the final version of Trouser Press in the magazine, I decided to put the first version I wrote here on Stylites. This earlier version contains several, admittedly puerile, political comments that were deemed unfit to appear in print at this time. So to see the finished version, please read The Beijinger.
Looking Good as a Spectator
The games are about competition, patriotism and respecting local culture. One cannot be overcautious in dressing, as every message will be scrutinized. Key times are games, parties, and brawls, sometimes all happening concurrently. The “to-die-for” piece is a lightweight chain mail vest, ostensibly celebrating the five rings, but really shielding those from countries that best the host in any event.
Main goals at all times remain safety and health. Toward these ends, clothing choices should offer protection from the heat and other spectators. For outdoor events, thin fabrics promote ventilation, while long sleeves stop sunburn. Denim is far too dense, while wearers of dark colors tend to bake in the sun. Though the air will be pristine, pure white should still be avoided as it is liable to be a victim of a neighbor’s Tsingtao. Sweat and catapulting saliva from other cheering enthusiasts are perennial perils for chic clothes at proletarian sporting events. Still, resist the temptation to wear tracksuits and team jerseys; you didn’t make the cut the first time.
Current indications are that much of the rabble will be exiled along with stray cats and lunatics, so it might be a cleaner affair than expected and a chance to dress-up. The average spectator won’t increase his medal count but he can trump other nationalities in elegance. Sartorial superiority is a refuge for those from countries with poor results; it won’t be hard to look better than citizens of the first, second or third ranking countries in the overall medal count.
Outfits geared toward parties make sense. For most sports fans, it will be night after night, raising glasses to celebrate or commiserate after hearing results. This is the time to wear a Stetson, straw hat, or a Panama. Spectators or suede bucks are perfect and linen, seersucker or even madras trousers will exhibit flare. An ascot is never wrong at a sporting event.
In the competitive climate of the bar or the stands, many might choose national dress or a look symbolizing support for their county’s team. A quirky approach is a patriotic tie. For example, citizens of the big stripy nation can opt for a star spangled banner tie from Vineyard Vines, available on their website (USD 75). Ties can also perform as nooses when things go badly for the homeland. Possibly more subtle approaches would be choosing national brands that design effective stylish sporty wear. This means Brits in Burberry, French in Lacoste, Americans in Ralph Lauren, Canadians in Dsquared, Japanese in Y3, and Italians in Dolce and Gabbana. Germans and Austrians can wear Lederhosen.
Dressing by color, it might be difficult to distinguish Americans, French, Russians, Brits, and others who could all safety go for blue trousers, a white shirt, and red shoes or hat. This would make them look marginally better than locals, struggling with red and yellow. Copying the style of a head of state is another way to back the national team. In this case, Moroccans and Afghans will be the dandies, North Koreans and Libyans the romancers, and Iranians will suffocate in the heat with their always-fastened collar button.
2 comments August 5th, 2008
Laura is a freelance journalist from Taiwan who writes for a range of Mainland publications including Modern Weekly and Vogue. She covers luxury goods, jewelry and other fashion topics. She loves Beijing, staying here at least three to four months out of the year. Her favorite is the part of the city within the Second Ring Road.
1 comment August 4th, 2008
D is the singer for D and the Hutong Cats. He was born on Shajin Hutong in the ‘80s but really should have been born in Nashville in the ‘50s. The style of his band and dress is decidedly rockability as he says himself. There was already a photo crew following him through the hutongs when I found him.
4 comments August 3rd, 2008
I love it when people appear on Stylites more than once -especially lovely people like Kiki. Last time it was in winter. Always on the way to a rehearsel or show, Kiki, the lead singer of Milk and Coffee, returns in black, as usual, but her smile and the heart make the color warmer. Sometimes I feel that black looks a little bit uncomfortable on a hot day though. But what is the fluffy thing in her hand used for?
7 comments August 2nd, 2008
These hats are popular in Japan, from whence this young film student, studying directing, hails. He commented that there is not much good fashion for men in Beijing and everything he wears if bought in Tokyo. It’s nice to see a little bit of pattern and not the usual black on his slim tie. The mustache also adds a certain edge to otherwise precious look.
1 comment July 31st, 2008
Having now appeared on the cover of Newsweek and toured in the United States and Japan, Hang on the Box front woman Gia W. is known for her agitated singing style. Considered representatives of the new Chinese youth since the late ‘90s, they claim Marilyn Manson and Billy Corgan as fans. Gia’s outfit was purchased mainly in Tokyo and consists of Japanese brands. She said her day job is oil painting.
5 comments July 30th, 2008
The other day, I helped carry boxes at the new American Apparel (AA) at the Sanlitun Village. The new shop is scheduled to open before the Olympics along with another branch at the World Trade Center. These will be the first two AAs in China.
As with many middle-market foreign brands operating in China, their plan is for the brand to be slightly more upscale than it is in the US. This will be accomplished mainly through the locations and appearance of the shops.
The products will be exactly the same ones that sell in the US market. I don’t want to dwell on the funny contradiction of having “made in USA” clothing selling in China. Several media stories explore this and discuss AA store openings in China. Hopefully AA will help reduce the trade defecit. AA believes the origin of their products will have a certain caché with young urban people here in China.
Prices will be slightly above the US, but this is only because of import taxes and shipping costs and not because of an increase in profit margins. At first, it struck me as odd that foreign clothing brands sell their products at prices higher than those in the West in a country where the average wages are, very roughly, one-fifteenth of Western levels. The Western levels of pricing for fashion products serve to remind us of the income disparity here and the fact that what we often refer to as “the middle class” is actually an elite in comparison to the rest of the population.
Prices will be slightly above the US, but this is only because of import taxes and shipping costs and not because of an increase in profit margins. At first, it struck me as odd that foreign clothing brands sell their products at prices higher than those in the West in a country where the average wages are, very roughly, one-fifteenth of Western levels. The Western levels of pricing for fashion products serve to remind us of the income disparity here and the fact that what we often refer to as “the middle class” is actually an elite in comparison to the rest of the population. Urban white collars working for foreign firms and the children of government officials and entrepreneurs will have no trouble affording AA or luxury brands. But it is critical that the right techniques are used to attract the people who can pay. Prices so out of sync with the average salary are one reason why foreign fashion brands all must make some effort to pitch their brand as high-end.
The prices for the raglan tops, polo-type knit shirts, and hoodies are all above RMB 300 – in general around 50 dollars per piece. This unisex and super skinny cords and denim are RMB 700 - some people in Beijing still make only this much every month (and never consider shopping at AA or anywhere beyond the vegetable market). Sales will only be online. The styles remain the same from season to season, so stock apparently does not need to be moved as fast as in stores like H&M and Zara. It will be interesting to see how this somewhat “anti-trend” approach goes over with the fashion-obsessed locals.
The prices shouldn’t be a problem if the marketing and positioning are handled properly. Uniqlo, H&M and Zara on sale are at a somewhat lower pricepoint, so it will be important to ensure that consumer don’t see AA as in the same class as these fast fashion brands. Clearly, these brands (with perhaps the exception of Uniqlo) are much more tied to fashion whereas AA’s products are both more original and more versatile. Since it is sporty, AA may be viewed as more akin to Adidas, Nike, and Kappa, which tend to have a higher pricepoint. These sports brands succeed mainly because their products are covered with brandnames and logos.
Wearing an AA tee-shirt or hoodie will not proclaim anything haughty to peers. Rather than targeting status-conscious businesspeople and their spouses and lovers, AA will have to succeed with young people focused on improving their own style through using well-cut basics or the activist/socially conscious message. The former group seems easier, and AA does offer something they need. Solid, well-made basics without a brandname or some obnoxious Chinglish message are hard to find in China. Also, the slim fit is perfect for the Chinese physique.
I am anxious to see if the social message approach is attempted and if it gains any traction. One potentially hopeful sign is that the spoiled younger generation isstarting to care about social causes, much like American youngsters who are selfish and not overly concerned about family but quite interested in the broader world. Of course, there could be political repercussions for attempting to bring AA’s activist message to China in any form.
Three of the future sales staff and some college students came in for the day to fold the clothing that will be in the stock room. The three future staff members are all graduates of foreign universities – always in great demand here in China. All of the floor staff will be able to speak English. AA described this as their first requirement. They evidently want people who are cool and internationalized - not those who just got in from the provinces. Staff must also be attractive and have a sense of personal style. To attract this calibre of staff, they will be offering hourly pay that is somewhere around the US minimum wage. This is much higher than what the average sales assistant makes in China, and on par with entry-level pay in foreign companies. It seems that the sales staff will be from the same socio-economic group that will be shopping at AA.
14 comments July 28th, 2008
Who did I run into on Nanluoguxiang the other day but Richard Lu, a long-time star of Stylites? Founder and CEO of Classical Public Relations Co., Ltd., Richard believes men’s style in Beijing is ever improving but needs to gain a more “international” flavor. He suggests that men here read more fashion magazines and find girlfriends who have taste and are happy to dress their girlfriends. The foreign men of Shanghai are much more fashionable than those of Beijing, whose style Richard describes as “square.”
4 comments July 24th, 2008
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