Posts filed under 'Beijing Shopping'
The other day, I helped carry boxes at the new American Apparel (AA) at the Sanlitun Village. The new shop is scheduled to open before the Olympics along with another branch at the World Trade Center. These will be the first two AAs in China.
As with many middle-market foreign brands operating in China, their plan is for the brand to be slightly more upscale than it is in the US. This will be accomplished mainly through the locations and appearance of the shops.
The products will be exactly the same ones that sell in the US market. I don’t want to dwell on the funny contradiction of having “made in USA” clothing selling in China. Several media stories explore this and discuss AA store openings in China. Hopefully AA will help reduce the trade defecit. AA believes the origin of their products will have a certain caché with young urban people here in China.
Prices will be slightly above the US, but this is only because of import taxes and shipping costs and not because of an increase in profit margins. At first, it struck me as odd that foreign clothing brands sell their products at prices higher than those in the West in a country where the average wages are, very roughly, one-fifteenth of Western levels. The Western levels of pricing for fashion products serve to remind us of the income disparity here and the fact that what we often refer to as “the middle class” is actually an elite in comparison to the rest of the population.
Prices will be slightly above the US, but this is only because of import taxes and shipping costs and not because of an increase in profit margins. At first, it struck me as odd that foreign clothing brands sell their products at prices higher than those in the West in a country where the average wages are, very roughly, one-fifteenth of Western levels. The Western levels of pricing for fashion products serve to remind us of the income disparity here and the fact that what we often refer to as “the middle class” is actually an elite in comparison to the rest of the population. Urban white collars working for foreign firms and the children of government officials and entrepreneurs will have no trouble affording AA or luxury brands. But it is critical that the right techniques are used to attract the people who can pay. Prices so out of sync with the average salary are one reason why foreign fashion brands all must make some effort to pitch their brand as high-end.
The prices for the raglan tops, polo-type knit shirts, and hoodies are all above RMB 300 – in general around 50 dollars per piece. This unisex and super skinny cords and denim are RMB 700 - some people in Beijing still make only this much every month (and never consider shopping at AA or anywhere beyond the vegetable market). Sales will only be online. The styles remain the same from season to season, so stock apparently does not need to be moved as fast as in stores like H&M and Zara. It will be interesting to see how this somewhat “anti-trend” approach goes over with the fashion-obsessed locals.
The prices shouldn’t be a problem if the marketing and positioning are handled properly. Uniqlo, H&M and Zara on sale are at a somewhat lower pricepoint, so it will be important to ensure that consumer don’t see AA as in the same class as these fast fashion brands. Clearly, these brands (with perhaps the exception of Uniqlo) are much more tied to fashion whereas AA’s products are both more original and more versatile. Since it is sporty, AA may be viewed as more akin to Adidas, Nike, and Kappa, which tend to have a higher pricepoint. These sports brands succeed mainly because their products are covered with brandnames and logos.
Wearing an AA tee-shirt or hoodie will not proclaim anything haughty to peers. Rather than targeting status-conscious businesspeople and their spouses and lovers, AA will have to succeed with young people focused on improving their own style through using well-cut basics or the activist/socially conscious message. The former group seems easier, and AA does offer something they need. Solid, well-made basics without a brandname or some obnoxious Chinglish message are hard to find in China. Also, the slim fit is perfect for the Chinese physique.
I am anxious to see if the social message approach is attempted and if it gains any traction. One potentially hopeful sign is that the spoiled younger generation isstarting to care about social causes, much like American youngsters who are selfish and not overly concerned about family but quite interested in the broader world. Of course, there could be political repercussions for attempting to bring AA’s activist message to China in any form.
Three of the future sales staff and some college students came in for the day to fold the clothing that will be in the stock room. The three future staff members are all graduates of foreign universities – always in great demand here in China. All of the floor staff will be able to speak English. AA described this as their first requirement. They evidently want people who are cool and internationalized - not those who just got in from the provinces. Staff must also be attractive and have a sense of personal style. To attract this calibre of staff, they will be offering hourly pay that is somewhere around the US minimum wage. This is much higher than what the average sales assistant makes in China, and on par with entry-level pay in foreign companies. It seems that the sales staff will be from the same socio-economic group that will be shopping at AA.
July 28th, 2008
While taking the cat to be neutered at the small animal clinic, I thought I might snap some street fashion in a new part of town: Xinjiekou. There weren’t too many denizens who warranted a second glance, but this new shop caught my attention.
It seemed vaguely familiar.
July 23rd, 2008
Weilding this interestesting bag purchased here in Beijing, Halla is the shopping and travel editor for The Beijinger. The July issue of “The Beijinger” just came out and it includes the full results of the 2008 Reader Bar & Club Awards. The Beijinger is That’s Beijing’s new name. In this Beijinger, as always, you can find the latest Stylites as well as my column on men’s style, Trouser Press.
June 27th, 2008
The sale just started yesterday at Lane Crawford. Get over there before it is too late.
Items are 30% to 50% off. In many cases, this just brings the price down to what it would be at about a 10% discount in the West, but not all of us have time for the trip back.
Unfortunately, my girlfriend wouldn’t let me spend too much time assessing the women’s clothing collections. The shoes on offer are quite nice, if you skip all the cheesy stuff and the rather brutal and strangely geriatric designs of Jil Sander and Dries Van Noten. There was an odd piece - I can’t remember the designer - that looked like a computer chip that wanted to be a samurai. The Miu Miu flats (RMB 1800, after 40% discount) in patent and calfskin are cute and a good shoe - considering the general low quality of women’s footwear - with leather soles and stitching rather than pasting. Hey, I view this from a man’s perspective. I don’t remember the brands, but everything under 1800 seemed to be pasted, rather than stitched. I’m a lover of much of the Alaia line, but there wasn’t too much on sale.
Let’s go to territory I know better. I particularly recommend looking at the men’s shoes, all the more fashion forward brands are on sale and most sizes are still available. They have a well-edited collection. In terms of quality and style this is the best value that can be found in Beijing. There are quite a few goodyear welted, full-grain leather, shoes made in Spain and Italy in the 1500-2500 range, which is not overwhelmingly pricey by international standards. Good for foreigners, size 44 (around a US 11) is available in most sizes, though 45 is rare. Unfortunately, the classic brands such as Santoni, John Lobb, and Church’s are not on sale.
Some of the other shoes are designed exclusively for Lane Crawford, and the quality is very respectable. The styles are fashionable but would not stick out too much in any work place. While not a huge bargain, it is by far the best one you will find in Beijing with such an excellent selection. These are light years beyond the dress shoes in that dreadful little shop - everyone loves it because there’s nothing else - in the Nali Market, which are invariably pasted and in terrible leather. Back to Lane Crawford, steer clear of the well-known designer brands like Paul Smith, Yves Saint Laurent, and Miu Miu; the prices are much higher and the styles are inferior to the Lane Crawford store brands. There are some really kitschy sneakers and sandals from some of those trendy brands like Raf Simons.
Ties are also on sale, and the collection is superior. Big brands like Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood can be had for around 700 and there are some more beautiful, smaller Italian brand ties for 600 or so. Again, this is the best tie selection in the city. The only other shop that comes close is Aleia, in Oriental Plaza.
The clothes are also on sale, but I can’t really convince myself to spring 1500-3000 for a shirt or trousers. There’s just much less work going into these than a good pair of handmade shoes.
Still find Lane Crawford too dear? If you want an even bigger bargain or would prefer not to pay anything at all, I am selling or giving away a good deal of my work and casual wardrobe because I live in a small hutong residence and need some breathing space. I am a size 40L in suits, a 32 waist, and wear a size 44/US11 shoe. Text me at 13910092410, as much of the free stuff will probably be gone by tonight.
June 17th, 2008
To represent our hopes for the futures of the thousands of children whose lives were devastated by the May 12 earthquake, Marzipan, our handmade accesories brand, is releasing a band, tentatively called “heart link”. Half of proceeds will go to the China Children and Teenager’s Fund for relief efforts. Please visit Marzipan to find out more information.
Right now 100% of proceeds from Stylites’ items, a new section of Stylites, will also go toward recovery efforts. Raised so far: 600RMB
Until June two, 10% of any purchase at Senli and Frye, tailoring, will also go toward recovery efforts
May 27th, 2008
If you aren’t a fan of details, you may not be drawn to the designs of Le Divan, based near Xinjiekou in West-Central Beijing. Those who fear new aesthetic norms, imaginative and quirky uses of fabric, and dressing with a sense of drama might also head elsewhere. So, yes, trend-followers who hit Zara seasonally or die-hard preppies, head-to-toe in Brooks Brothers, will probably not end up wearing this coat. On the other hand, the pure lines and quality natural fabrics make most Le Divan pieces “integratable” in a more traditional wardrobe.
Confidently donning an entire ensemble from their studio is a challenge for which few beyond Aurelien Lecour and Tony Hwa, co-founder of Le Divan, have the stylistic panache or slim physique. Le Divan is fortunate that in one area, at least, they can cut costs: with Aurelien on the team, they shouldn’t be needing too many extra models. Nonetheless, I would be happy to offer myself, and be paid in kind - perhaps in the form of this coat, if they start needing the beefier, swarthier types.
When it comes to materials, however, little expense is spared. Most of the fabric is imported from Italy or Japan, but they have also managed to locate some of the best Chinese-made fabrics I have seen. None of the usual cheesy, cheapo polyesters or coarse cottons and linens can be found at Le Divan. The fabric of this coat is a gorgeously nubby 100% silk tweed from Shandong.
The lining is a silk we’re more used to, but they have clearly found sources for interesting patterns that have evaded me thus far. Their garments all feature unique silk linings. They even include the linings in the pockets and other areas. For many people having clothing made in China, the lining is the most fun part, a chance for expressiveness. Silk breathes better and feels nicer than the polyester in most tailor-made and OTR cheap suits, though most silks are not as durable as high quality bemberg rayon. In China, bemberg actually costs more than many silks, though it hardly exists in patterns or interesting colors.
Aurelien and Tony are also creating a line of shoes and bags, of which this is a prototype.
This is just a preview on Le Divan. I will cover the fabrics and designs, plans for the future, and the unique business model more thoroughly in the next couple of weeks.
The address of Le Divan is Xinjiekou Nan Dajie, Baihuashen Chu, 25 (西城区 新街口大街 百花深处25号) and the phone number is (+86) 10 66 16 17 59. Their website is www.ledivanstudio.com.
May 26th, 2008
Stylites wishes to convey a message of condolence to the people of Dujiangyan, Mianyang, Wenchuan and all other areas of Sichuan hit by the disastrous quake last week. We are particularly grieved to hear of the huge number of orphaned children and children who have lost their homes and schools. Additionally, we applaud the efforts of the Chinese government, especially Premier Wen Jiabao, and local and foreign relief workers now in Sichuan.
Stylites’ items, a new section of Stylites, focuses on original designs and unique secondhand and new apparel and accessories. Right now 100% of proceeds will go toward recovery efforts focused on children that are survivors of the Sichuan earthquake.
Have a look! Raised so far: 600RMB
For the next two weeks at least, 10% of any purchase at Senli and Frye will also go toward recovery efforts.
May 21st, 2008
These days the Burberry plaid can only be done well in accents like the roll-up cuff of hot Hannah’s padded jacket. The fitted, herringbone blazer is perfect for Sunday and Chris knows how to pull it off casually. Their individual looks go well with together. The tweed coat worn by Chris is perfect outerwear for fall and even early spring. He had it made at Senli and Frye
Just to give more of an idea of this coat, here is a photo of me in mine. I was in desperate need of a haircut that day.
May 4th, 2008
Even the Chinese immersed in hip-hop preach its tenets with ferocious dedication. Hip-hop apparel is saturated with its culture, but few local wearers of the style realize this, according to Paco Ou, founder of Bustout, the newest and largest streetwear emporium in Beijing. He seeks to change this with a hand-picked streetwear selection that focuses on authenticity and a mission revolving around education.
With its technicolor print hoodies, genuine special edition sneakers, and one-of-a-kind tee shirts, Bustout will redefine the scene here, remaking the hip-hop man from head to toe, and Paco, 22, has ambitions far greater than just these. He wants the store, among the most airy retail spaces here, to be a platform from which to educate local youth on the origins of hip-hop culture.
Apparently, middle class kids in baggy jeans and over-sized headphones don’t really get the culture. Through events, literature, and his own presence, Paco wants to teach the background of hip-hop and what it means in the Chinese context. Poor kids from the south side of Beijing don’t grow up with drugs and violence, but still must “hustling all day” and have faith in themselves despite the odds, part of what hip hop is about.
To wear the clothes, Chinese kids have to know this story, says Paco. Having worked in apparel since 15, Paco had his share of hustling and he also learned to source the best products, and 80% of which products are exclusive to Bustout. Some standout gear includes Levi’s Jeans (RMB 400-700), particularly raw demin intended for export to Japan, X-Large T-Shirts (RMB 160), Stussy Bandana Print T-shirts (RMB 160). Hoodies are the dominant outerwear with Prohibit (RMB 350), Hollywood Cartel (RMB 460) , 686 (RMB 240), Famous Stars and Stripes RMB 240). His clients will be mainly in the 15 to 25 age range, though a middle-aged policeman who dresses in hip hop style when he gets off work is a regular customers. Paco confesses that the real gangsters in China will never wear hip hop clothing.
Opening Hours: 11am-10pm
东四隆福寺街52-1
Dongsi Longfusi Street, 52-1
Please note that a slightly different version of this piece appeared in the February issue of That’s Beijing.
February 19th, 2008
