Sorry for the lack of females recently. I just haven’t been finding them. From Los Angeles, Ryan Horne is a manager at the new China Doll, on the entire fifth floor of 3.3. A lover of cashmere sweaters and fitted blazers, Ryan explains that China Doll gives Beijingers the “reason to dress up” they have been seeking. More than a club or bar, it is a cultural megaplex, and most importantly an arena for dandies and fashionistas alike to promenade.
3 comments July 8th, 2008
Minzhao, who works at Bank of China, had just visited Beijing’s Lane Crawford with her parents. She said that the heating was turned too high, but she did concede that the designs on offer were very cutting edge. Her father commented that the prices seemed far too high for the Beijing market. As for wearing a blanket? Well, it was kind of shocking to see it immediately after viewing the Stella Mccartney and Alexander Mcqueen Couture in Lane Crawford.
1 comment February 26th, 2008
Ana, from Moldova, has enjoyed watching the shopping options in Beijing expand exponentially in recently. She thinks Beijing women benefit tremendously from fashion mags, displaying style role models.
Add comment December 12th, 2007
A pivotal moment in recent men’s fashion received ample expression at the Lane Crawford party. Not only are the dropped-crotch trousers a key look for men in winter 2007, they are also one of the memorable pieces from Hedi Slimane’s last collection for Dior Homme, and consequently a collector’s item. Women, especially Japanese, have enjoyed this unconstricting style for several years and a few menswear designers have attempted these trousers lately, but Hedi Slimane succeeded in making them look edgy and rockstar-like, as he does with most pieces. They stand in marked contrast with the extreme slimness for which his collections are known.
They’re not Jodhpurs, intended for riding with a flare at the thighs and a standard rise, and they’re definitely not harem pants. The inspiration appears to be “dhoti” pants from India, which are normally paired with the “kurta” - a long pajama-like shirt.
It is perhaps in being paired with other more stock Dior Homme pieces like the slim black tie and small-collared shirt that these trousers really shine. Clothed head to toe in Dior Homme, Marcus is a VM Manager for Lane Crawford. His comment on the night: “With a Lane Crawford better than the ones in Hong Kong, Beijing will quickly supplant Shanghai as the mainland’s fashion capital.
I asked Richard: “Where is the jacket from?” “Dior Homie.” (his pronunciation) “The tie?” “Dior Homie.” The pants? “Dior Homie.” Beijing’s new Dior Homme carried just four of the 100% wool dhoti-styled trousers, which I now call “homie trousers”, at RMB 6,200 (USD 840) a pair. Richard nabbed one and urbanized the slightly rough look admirably – the glass of Moët helped too. He carries the homie trousers with somewhat more aplomb than the Hong Kong Homie, in my opinion, due to his commanding attitude. I would argue that Richard’s healthy appearance goes better with the trousers than that of the waif-like model wearing them on the runway:
All told, while the silhouette is refreshing, one can’t deny that it is a risky look. Without buying the entire Dior Homme ensemble and, maybe, being Chinese and thus quite removed from American pop culture, a certain comparison might be made.
The Homie pants should not be rejected for eternity just because of that unfortunate episode. I encountered Richard again recently and he showed his usual appreciation of the drama and fun that I believe should always be a part of fashion.
Anyone who carries a glass of champagne for every picture is fine by me. I still haven’t found out what Richard does or believes. I would like to constantly have a glass of champagne in hand, and have a little man for refilling follow me everywhere I go. A second man would push along a Louis Vuitton wardrobe filled with bottles. That is the only LV piece I would ever buy, and it necessitates the hiring of a man whose sole purpose in life is pushing it. There’s a thought for the new wealthy of China.
10 comments December 11th, 2007
In the dead of winter, hatless Beijingers wearing heavy quilted coats swear hats are not stylish, and snicker when foreigners repeat the old “30% of body heat” thing. Hopefully, Yao Yao’s example can prove that cranial warmth can be chic. This picture didn’t actually appear in That’s Beijing. In fact, they didn’t use most of my shots of females from the Lane Crawford Party, preferring the males.
Add comment December 10th, 2007
Italian blood is infused with courage and, in recent times, design. Andrea, manager of an Italian PR firm, realizes his creative potential with the tailors in the capitol of the latest Empire. Even his watch is his own creation.
Add comment December 10th, 2007
Finally my pictures from the Lane Crawford opening party can appear on stylites.net, since they have now already appeared in the December issue of Thats Beijing. Please get your own copy, to see these photos in print. The original goal for this edition of Stylites in Beijing, in That’s Beijing, was to focus on the whole Financial Street area in Western Beijing. However, I found on numerous trips to the area that there was very little interesting style in the region beyond the night of the Lane Crawford opening party. Even in Seasons Place Shopping Mall, where Lane Crawford is located, on a normal day, there is no one that I want to photograph. In fact, there are very few people, owing to the location and the high prices of the stores in the mall. Perhaps this simply highlights the exclusivity of the shopping complex.
I guess the name Financial Street says it all. Ibankers can certainly be stylish in a traditional way, though they tend not to chase the latest trends, but even that Saville Row set of style sensibilities has not reached Beijing. However, the international fashion elite welcoming Lane Crawford to Beijing showed an intimate knowledge of the looks and pieces that are hot now, and a talent for mixing, matching, and innovating on them creatively.
Bernie describes Beijing as “culturally rich” with consumers “ready for anything”. His attitude and look both seem “ready for anything” with this singular cotton waistcoat that blends British tradition with the de-rigeur black of the fashion elite. Based in Hong Kong, Bernie is a buyer for Lane Crawford.
Did anyone ever say Chinese women don’t have long legs. Even with this pair, the leg warmers seem to add rather than subtract from height. Fangfang is a fashion designer who owns her own shop; the coat is her own creation.
Lane Crawford’s junior buyer, Jimmy says menswear at Lane Crawford will rely on key brands like Zegna and Armani, while educating on new brands with a more “romantic” spirit. His Burberry Prorsum wool/cashmere coat with braided epaulettes (RMB 27,350) encapsulates that spirit and the size 48 hanging in the store happens to be a perfect fit for me. Instead I picked up a similar, but inferior because it lacked the braided epaulettes and Italian fabric, piece in 3.3 for RMB 550.
Add comment December 10th, 2007
Sorry for the hand. I forgot to mention that I saw Maggie Cheung at the Lane Crawford party. She was in the process of being hearded off to the VIP room, no doubt. She is as beautiful as she is said to be and seeing her was one of the high points of my adult life. For Western viewer who may not know Maggie: she starred in In the Mood for Love. Americans may be more familiar with Gong Li and Zhang Ziyi, but for the Chinese themselves and - perhaps not so coincidentally - the French, Maggie Cheung is the most beloved Chinese actress and the most beautiful.
In the Mood for Love is worth seeing just for many reasons: the soundtrack, the story, the setting. For me, the beautiful qipaos she wears are reason enough.
There is a time lag on my photos, for which I apologize. The photos I take for That’s Beijing must appear there before they appear on my blog, according to our agreement. So the Lane Crawford party is quite old news in Beijing as is summer, but photos from these two events will be appearing on my blog periodically anyway. I am trying to remedy this problem. Given the fact that I don’t too much time to take photos, it is difficult. Regard the blog as a celebration of timeless style.
1 comment November 12th, 2007
Prepared to go acquiring, some men at the opening party of Lane Crawford are looking cool.
They could feel confident that Lane Crawford selected the best pieces from each of the labels on offer. Rick Owens, Burberry Prorsum, Viktor and Rolf, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Neil Barrett, and Alexander Mcqueen are in Beijing for the first time. The new Dior Homme shop opposite confirms that Beijing is no longer a men’s fashion backwater.
Here are Beijing’s best shoes. Check N.D.C Made by Hand brogues (4,100). Lane Crawford is China’s only distributor of these and the Spanish Preventi (around 2,500). Church’s (5,800-6,800), bench-made in the UK, are among the earth’s best shoes, though boring Zegnas are still the top sellers at Lane Crawford. Uh, not to mention the John Lobbs (14,000+).
The tie, shirt, and scarf selection was acceptable, but for lovelier choices, check Allen in Oriental Plaza. More pocket squares would be nice. Standouts were Burberry Prorsum slim ties (1,895) and Viktor and Rolf star print ties (1,000). Choices in attractive corporate-friendly ties lagged; brands missing include Hilditch and Key, Charvet, and Massimo Bizzochi. The Italy-made store brand shirts (1,400) suffice, but Turnbull and Asser or Borrelli would outclass. Skip Vivienne Westwood scarves – the orb is old - but indulge in an over-dyed Raf Simons “split ends” scarf (3300).
Officewear is Dunhill, Zegna, Pal Zileri, and Armani, familiar brands that will sate nearby ibankers and private equity thugs, and generate steady cash flow. The well-edited collections save trips to their boutiques, but truly exclusive brands like Barbera, Isaia, or Belvest might be nice. Choose Pal Zileri for its superior construction - a one button, peak lapel, s120 navy pinstriped suit (18,300) needs you. Non-sale prices include alterations. Skip the Paul Smith suits, but try out his beige, velvet-collared, crombie (13,700).
For divine experiences, blending high fashion with great tailoring, go for the silk/wool Alexander Mcqueen suit (26,700), which makes shimmering look good and will doubtless adorn a popstar, and the black Burberry Prorsum wool/cashmere coat with braided epaulettes (27,350) that seemed custom-made for me. Or you could get personalized replicas custom-made by a tailor here in Beijing.
2 comments November 8th, 2007
Add comment October 29th, 2007
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