Autumn Scarves: Short Sleeves, Plaids, and Leopard Print

Every May and June, fashion columnists pour out statements like “this summer, long, lightweight scarves in silk or linen are a must-haves” followed by a list of justifications like avoiding sun-burns and a roster of Hollywood actresses adopting the style. This summer saw even more New Yorkers pairing scarves with tank tops and tees. New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham has amusing reflections on this trend. The blog Stuff White People Like, recently made into a guidebook, also comments on this seasonless love of scarves, apparently a noted characteristic of the author’s hipster/borgeousie who seem similar to the bobos in Bobos in Paradise.

In Beijing, the summer is too ghastly to justify donning a scarf even for the very most affected fashionistas. Only in Autumn did the scarf paired with summery garments emerge across the city. Over the last couple of weeks, almost every young person has been wearing a scarf, usually without a jacket. In daytime, Autumn temperatures can be hot, while at night the wind blows hard and it is chilly. I comfortably wear a tee shirt in the day and then add a sweater and tweed coat at night.

These photos of pedestrians around the city celebrate the warm part of Autumn, which just passed.
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1. If temperatures do drop dramatically, keeping the neck warm is essential. Presumably, no one ever got a cold from exposing their arms.

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2. This fairly heavy scarf could be pulled tight at night when gales blow. This fellow looks to lack a single pretentious bone in his body, so the scarf cannot be to show-off.

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3. Perhaps scarves make somewhat more sense with a vest.

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4. A low-neck sweater, wool scarf and shorts? English schoolboys exposed their legs in the depths of winter. However, this fellow has clearly become too Westernized, because in China legs and feet are considered to be the most important areas to keep warm.

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5. Though more attractive, this look is just as oblivious to the dictates of Chinese traditional medicine. Her mother would find wearing a scarf and a short skirt with no stockings to be an entirely nonsensical style.

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6. This voluminous one could easily cover the shoulders and perhaps even head if things got especially chilly.

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7. This thinner scarf makes a bit more sense as a mainly decorative item.

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8. Drape a bit of cat around the neck to keep toasty while dancing at Mix. It matches perfectly with her hair.

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9. But the most common type of scarf has been plaid and made of thin acryllic. Every second girl under the age of thirty has been sporting a variety of lengths of this type of scarf.

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10. It’s not hard to see where they come from: bunches like this hang at every corner.

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11. This is probably the most common look.

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12. And other shapes abound as well. Now I am anxious to see what the scarf styles will be for the seasons in which one really does need the warmth.

A Basic Panda

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A single, very well-designed beast is replacing the cartoony creatures that used to adorn tee shirts. Animals will no doubt appreciate the increase in respect shown through more accurate depictions using better fabrics. No one deserves it more than the panda.

Androgyny Gets Chicer

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Girls unafraid to look boyish are not new – girls avoided looking anything but boyish until the eighties. In the sixties and seventies, women wore little to no make-up and avoided form-fitting clothes. Androgyny was the norm, though not for reasons of fashion. When looking at women in their fifties and sixties, that past is quite evident. Aside from the most affluent and Westernized ladies, most tend to abjure the feminine touches that women of their age in the West grew up with. When middle-aged mainland women do attempt to look more feminine, it sometimes comes off as a bit forced. This is despite our perception that Chinese women are more feminine.

Visitors to China often find the younger generations to be overly girly in their dress and comportment. The lace, frilly things and references to stuffed animals abound. For foreign women, this can be grounds for complaining. However, with Li Yuchun, the Super Girl contest winner famed for her baggy jeans and noncomformist boyishness, it became fashionable for young girls to escape the confines of their sex and its cutesiness. Immediately, young girls throughout the county began immitating Li. Here it is nice to see a sex-neutral look on a girl that is a bit more stylish than mullets and shapeless clothes.

Spacious Proportions

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This hairdresser failed to fire a visual bazooka at us unlike most of his tacky colleagues. Might not seem like much, but this young Northeasterner is showing us proportions that menswear might increasingly opt for in the future. Many designers and consumers are tired of tight clothes and formalwear could also begin to go more toward fuller cut trousers.

Han in Dong

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To make up for those times when there were so many men appearing on the blog, I have been focusing on the girls lately. Julia or Fan Fan is especially attractive. Beijing has droves of pretty and even beautiful girls like her, but very few attractive ones. Being attractive has more to do with spirit and taste than chromosomes.

Ethnic looks are usually irksome but this works, because of the pretty wearer, that it is head-to-toe and not just one random element, and the lack of overwhelming colors or patterns. Fashion editor of Audio Vision Magazine Fan Fan, from Tianjin, is a connoisseur of China’s ethnic minority cultures, including music and handicrafts. This outfit was custom-made for her by a Dong women with a shop at Panjiayuan.

A few weeks after meeting me on the street, Fan Fan interviewed me regarding Stylites. I will try to put a link to the article soon.

Opposites, in Personality Anyway

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In this adorable pair, only lovely Lu Lu, in the black trousers, spoke. From Anhui, she hosts a fashion show on TV. Over-sized tee-shirts tend to be irritating but here the braces and wide leg trousers are a good frame. With a touch of loucheness, this droopy outfit looks comfy. The trousers, what initially drew me to take a picture, are actually from Zara, which seems surprising.

Skater Girls

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They’ve been growing in number. In Beijing, skating and the styles that are such an important aspect of it were more the province of men, but recently a number of girls are doing the look well.

Camos and Converse

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BTV8 was doing a documentary on Stylites at the time, so there was no time to ask for names, hobbies and favorite colors. A Shanghai girl, she works for Converse, a brand that can do no wrong in the eyes of hipsters globally and particularly in China. Camo prints are not favorites but on the right girl with the right attitude…

Tehran Takes Beijing

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They lack the over-sized suit coat, but they are buttoning the top button. It’s not just these two either. All over Beijing and the world, men are becoming comfortable with this look that was formerly considered too daft or too nerdy. New England mothers used to clip off the top buttons of shirts to make sure their little boys wouldn’t look nerdy, but with a little bit of help from Prada runway shows and certain highly influential subcultures (somebody is bound to bring them up), the buttoned collar now seems linked to a stylish firmness and a confident rejection of needless ornamentation.

Well-known social and literary critic Thomas Meaney has a fun piece on Saddam Hussein’s rejection of the necktie at his trial. It is seen as a symbol of both the cross and, more rationally, westernization. In fact, the top buttoned look is more commonly associated with Iran than Iraq. Iranians sometimes refer to the shah’s rule as “the regime of the Crown and Necktie” and when I was there I noticed countless religious types with styles similar to the young fellows in the photos. Iran is still at the point where leaving three buttons undone shows one’s rebelliousness. The fact that China has made it to the point where buttoning the button is seen as free-thinking is notable indeed.

Saddam did have a square, so clearly couldn’t resist a little ornamentation even at this dire time.

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Isn’t this the truth? This young man spins records and lives in the hutong next to mine and knows why China is big. We can never forget that all of China’s most brilliant moments have come under a strong and unified central government. It is critical that the masses rally behind it.

The Colors of Sunflower

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People who like to pose are lovely. They are like interviewees who enjoy telling their own story. The dress may not be a perfect fit or material, but the slouchiness and that of the hat give this young student a perfect vibe for summer. As you’ve probably noticed, the truth is that I haven’t been in Beijing since it was basically still that season. This is all going to change in a week.

Men in Hats

Too many guys wearing hats recently! Hat-wearing rate has spiked massively over the last six months. Girls are even getting on the action. Personally, I have lost several rather pricey pieces of headgear over this same period. I had a particularly nice hat from Sicily, made of velvet, that seems to have been purloined by the hair dresser. His logic is sound. Without the hat to cover my scruffy rug, there is no choice but to invest more funds in its appearance. The sneaky hair cutting man stands to benefit from reducing my wardrobe’s hat population.

For some reason I guessed that the fellow in the pic was a Korean, but he is from Beijing. He does the hat and shorts thing admirably. In fact, his example convinced me to invest in shorts (or rather to invest in scissors to convert some of my more flarish trousers into shorts) right as the summer was drawing to a final close. Now that it is cold, try to get a glimpse of me doing the English schoolboy thing with a blazer. I’m debating about whether to do a suit with shorts for next summer. Sadly, my shaggy and thick legs really don’t warrant all of this.

Red, White and Blue Braces

Converses – international symbol of free-thinking and youth – have always been best when red, at least in Beijing. I have read articles that praise a range of rockstars being the first to don the red Converses. This summer there were even more. It must have been the patriotic fervor surrounding the Olympics. Skinny jeans also became black, and girls studying finance adopted the Brit-rocker style of many of the young blokes, complete with the narrow, red, white and blue braces.

This type of braces have been around for a while, but I have been noticing this red, white, and blue stripe theme showing up everywhere. It is a signature detail for Thom Browne’s suits and coats, as in the following:

Pretty neat. Thom Browne’s quirky designs reference American classics and sports popular in Fairfield County. This leads one to believe that this highlight on the coat is not-quite-concealed patriotism. Still, the order of the colors is the same as the tricolour, of France. Chinese youngsters are most partial to referencing England, its rock and punk culture and its flag, in their attire. Let us try hard to interpret of these colors together as a sign of support for all three Western members of the security council. It is no surprise that US, France, and England have a strong grip on young people’s worldview.

Hatted Photographers

This perfect pair would fit in on any trendy street in Asia. They capture the current fascination with hats on boys. This kind of hat actually looks better on Asia guys, so I think this style will remain. These two photographers have a certain louche aura, but the one on the right is a practicing Muslim from the Hui community. This is not to accuse Muslims of not being louche enough; Hui are simply less common than others. There are a mere 10 million of them, one-tenth the number of Chinese with the surname Li.

Tedious Trend Three: Skulls

Calling this trend “tedious” is far too glib, considering the long history of the skull in art, jewelery and fashion. As this fun Esquire piece contends, the current omnipresence of skulls matches our global society’s unabashed embrace of wealth and materialism with its ephemeralness. The skull is probably even more fitting for this moment in China’s history and quite an appropriate symbol to mention on a website that celebrates a new blossoming of individualism and vanity. The skull has, often, represented the meaninglessness of these eternal human pursuits. There is not enough time to consider whether the skull might have any relation to this day, on which the Chinese people celebrate standing up for fifty-nine years, ever since the Great Helmsman declared the birth of the People’s Republic. I did want to wish everyone a happy October first.

Anyway, here are just a few pics, of hundreds I could have chosen, to show that skulls in all forms are just as common in China.

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This one is a little bit pirate-like. This was right next to the bird’s nest.

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Here we have a creative skull that seems to have an almost Central American influence. The wearer works in the new Mac store.

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Here is a skull on the leg of a skater.

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And a skull with paper clips.

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This one looks as if illnesses have haunted it well into the grave.

This post reveals my ignorance more than anything else. More research clearly needs to be done on the subject of skulls in Chinese culture. When young people in China wear shirts with skulls is it rebellious (like it was previously in the West) or is more fashionable (like it is now)? Clearly it has to be associated with death. Some might respond that they are just wearing shirts that they find amusing, but it cannot be that simple. There have been decorative skulls made from jade dug up at sites in China, suggesting ritual importance for the symbol.