Androgyny Gets Chicer

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Girls unafraid to look boyish are not new – girls avoided looking anything but boyish until the eighties. In the sixties and seventies, women wore little to no make-up and avoided form-fitting clothes. Androgyny was the norm, though not for reasons of fashion. When looking at women in their fifties and sixties, that past is quite evident. Aside from the most affluent and Westernized ladies, most tend to abjure the feminine touches that women of their age in the West grew up with. When middle-aged mainland women do attempt to look more feminine, it sometimes comes off as a bit forced. This is despite our perception that Chinese women are more feminine.

Visitors to China often find the younger generations to be overly girly in their dress and comportment. The lace, frilly things and references to stuffed animals abound. For foreign women, this can be grounds for complaining. However, with Li Yuchun, the Super Girl contest winner famed for her baggy jeans and noncomformist boyishness, it became fashionable for young girls to escape the confines of their sex and its cutesiness. Immediately, young girls throughout the county began immitating Li. Here it is nice to see a sex-neutral look on a girl that is a bit more stylish than mullets and shapeless clothes.

Han in Dong

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To make up for those times when there were so many men appearing on the blog, I have been focusing on the girls lately. Julia or Fan Fan is especially attractive. Beijing has droves of pretty and even beautiful girls like her, but very few attractive ones. Being attractive has more to do with spirit and taste than chromosomes.

Ethnic looks are usually irksome but this works, because of the pretty wearer, that it is head-to-toe and not just one random element, and the lack of overwhelming colors or patterns. Fashion editor of Audio Vision Magazine Fan Fan, from Tianjin, is a connoisseur of China’s ethnic minority cultures, including music and handicrafts. This outfit was custom-made for her by a Dong women with a shop at Panjiayuan.

A few weeks after meeting me on the street, Fan Fan interviewed me regarding Stylites. I will try to put a link to the article soon.

Skater Girls

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They’ve been growing in number. In Beijing, skating and the styles that are such an important aspect of it were more the province of men, but recently a number of girls are doing the look well.

Camos and Converse

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BTV8 was doing a documentary on Stylites at the time, so there was no time to ask for names, hobbies and favorite colors. A Shanghai girl, she works for Converse, a brand that can do no wrong in the eyes of hipsters globally and particularly in China. Camo prints are not favorites but on the right girl with the right attitude…

The Colors of Sunflower

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People who like to pose are lovely. They are like interviewees who enjoy telling their own story. The dress may not be a perfect fit or material, but the slouchiness and that of the hat give this young student a perfect vibe for summer. As you’ve probably noticed, the truth is that I haven’t been in Beijing since it was basically still that season. This is all going to change in a week.

Men in Hats

Too many guys wearing hats recently! Hat-wearing rate has spiked massively over the last six months. Girls are even getting on the action. Personally, I have lost several rather pricey pieces of headgear over this same period. I had a particularly nice hat from Sicily, made of velvet, that seems to have been purloined by the hair dresser. His logic is sound. Without the hat to cover my scruffy rug, there is no choice but to invest more funds in its appearance. The sneaky hair cutting man stands to benefit from reducing my wardrobe’s hat population.

For some reason I guessed that the fellow in the pic was a Korean, but he is from Beijing. He does the hat and shorts thing admirably. In fact, his example convinced me to invest in shorts (or rather to invest in scissors to convert some of my more flarish trousers into shorts) right as the summer was drawing to a final close. Now that it is cold, try to get a glimpse of me doing the English schoolboy thing with a blazer. I’m debating about whether to do a suit with shorts for next summer. Sadly, my shaggy and thick legs really don’t warrant all of this.

Crafty Journalist

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From Hokkaido, Hitomi Oyama has been staying in China for over five years and has worked for radio, as a translator, and as a freelance journalist, writing for both Chinese and Japanese publications. Her main focuses are art and culture and a major hobby is handicrafts. She makes clothes and the white bag in the picture. I’m quite a fan of this look – she is so unmistakably Japanese and still so eclectic.

So Little Cynicism

Well, what is one supposed to say in this case? He must represent some sort of triumph for individualism in China. Here we have the younger generation eagerly showing it is not constrained by any conformist guidelines of fashion or conventionality. We even have a clear rejection of the old pursuit of status. What is he trying to achieve if not a sort of upbeat independance? Why he is so upbeat would be the subject for a longer post. He must have been born with very few cultural complexes or he must at least have a unique ability to not think about these hangups too often.

China’s miracle suggests a hundred different questions. One of them is why all the other non-Western countries cannot develop in the same way. Part of the reason might relate to the absence of young men in those countries who can at once be uninhibited and disciplined. Chinese never tire of mentioning their five-thousand years. The amazing thing is that all those years have left them with so little cynicism. In the Middle East for example, cynicism seems to have come before wealth. Or maybe wealth came too soon bringing cynicism? In China, the cynicism is either so well entrenched in people’s pscyches that it becomes barely noticable, or people really are this optimistic. Brilliant enough growth can produce hope for all that can triumph over all blatant inequalities and deficiencies in a system.

People in the West have eaten too little bitterness to understand, and as always the best answer is probably to not bother attempting to explain things. I can’t even figure out which shoes I should buy next – forget trying to understand a country.

Autumn Comes to Beijing!

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Today was chilly. Autumn appears to have arrived and with it some of the sophisticated fashions for which the capital is famed. Boots are always a favorite and nothing seems to match with them better than shorts – especially in classic denim. What a smart but creative look to make the transition between summer ad fall!

PR Girl, Before the Fall

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Sabrina, not the first from Ogilvy to appear on Stylites, says hers is Beijing’s most stylish PR company, due to the influence of its advertising division. She purchased her bag to show support for efforts of the Red Cross in Sichuan. She is believes the Olympics is allowing foreigners to see that China is not as backward and uncool as they might have thought. PR people are generally fearing the end of the Olympics since this has been a very busy time for them.

Gia W. from Hang on the Box: Killer Looks

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Having now appeared on the cover of Newsweek and toured in the United States and Japan, Hang on the Box (and a wiki here) front woman Gia W. is known for her agitated singing style. Considered representatives of the new Chinese youth since the late ‘90s, they claim Marilyn Manson and Billy Corgan as fans. Gia’s outfit was purchased mainly in Tokyo and consists of Japanese brands. She said her day job is oil painting.

Classics, Head-to-Toes

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Who did I run into on Nanluoguxiang the other day but Richard Lu, a long-time star of Stylites? Founder and CEO of Classical Public Relations Co., Ltd., Richard believes men’s style in Beijing is ever improving but needs to gain a more “international” flavor. He suggests that men here read more fashion magazines and find girlfriends who have taste and are happy to dress their girlfriends. The foreign men of Shanghai are much more fashionable than those of Beijing, whose style Richard describes as “square.”

Modish Hunaner

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From Changsha, Wind Lee is a freelance stylish and merchandizer seeking new assignments. He used to work for Jack and Jones, but he doesn’t wear their clothes, which he thinks are too boring, preferring pieces from more avant-garde labels like the Dries Van Noten casual jacket purchased in New Zealand that he is wearing in the picture.

You may have noticed that recently the number of men appearing on the blog has been growing. Beijing men are not known for their refined taste or genius in replicating the latest trends from Milan and Paris. Though men’s style is governed by a million little rules of taste, cut, and fit, most men here are ignorant of these guidelines or choose to ignore them. Foreigners arriving in Beijing happily adopt a laid-back or lazy style of dress since most of their local colleagues could care less. This means there is ample aesthetic trash on the landscape, which in the case of men is usually not even entertaining.

The positive side of this is a sort of freedom to experiment for those who are interested in style and wish to be creative. The need to look good remains for women in Beijing, while men face little pressure. Money and status tend to be the main attractions a man can offer to the opposite sex, here even more than in the West. For men, dressing well is more of a hobby; the men who dress interestingly sometimes look like they are having more fun than the women, since society requires that women have some sort of style. The well-dressed or quirky men also stand-out a great deal more from the gray and navy blue crowd than the women do.

Hogwarts Castle, Official Scribe

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Allen said he chose Harry Potter as his stylistic muse for the day and I think he did a good job bringing his own personality to the look. The specs were definitely also channelling David Hockney though some primary colors would need to be added to complete the look. A freelance writer who tracks fashion and culture, his main assignments have recently been for internal publications for circulation within organizations under the Ministry of Culture.