Cola’s Coffee

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On my second trip to No. 46, I noticed a spacious new coffee shop just to the left of the main gate. Cola is proprieter of just opened Charity Share (益飨), which specializes in fair trade coffee and includes a fashion boutique in its loft.

因为咖啡够好,其实喝咖啡是外国人的传统
中国人很少能品出这个咖啡好不好
而且我们做fairtrade,其实外国人比较懂,因为从英国开始的,从欧洲开始的
他们会认,而且他们理念里会有要和fairtrade coffe这个概念
第三,我们的桌子椅子大部分都比较硬
中国人可能怕硬,但是我的很多外国客人喜欢坐硬的地方

She says Charity Share is the first bar or coffee shop in China to make promoting the public good its main theme. Her coffee shop is also the first in Beijing to receive a Certification Mark from the Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International. A portion of all profits will go to charities and the high-ceiled, roomy space will host numerous NGO fundraising events, auctions, etc.

Initially, she expects foreigners will be the main clients as they are both more picky about the quality of coffee and familiar with the concept of free trade products. Amusingly, she says the hard seats are another reason why foreigners will be more attracted to Charity Share than Chinese, who prefer softer seating.

Originally from Xinjiang, Cola came to Beijing in 1999 and studied Chinese at Beijing Normal University. In 2006, she received her Master’s in marketing from the Chinese University of Hong Kong. She quit her media job in May to focus all of her energy on the new coffee shop. Her recent interest in being more civic-minded has improved her mindset a great deal. She is now more able to be contented with her situation and less aggressive. Interestingly, one cup of coffee a day is her maximum. Any more and her heart beats too fast.

New Stylites Stomping Ground?

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Many comment that Stylites seems focused on just a few areas of Beijing: Nanluoguxiang, Sanlitun, and occasionally Xidan. Beijing really does lack public spaces frequented by stylish people. The city is spread-out and, sadly, car-addicted; those with the leisure or funds usually a minimum requirement for style rarely walk anyway. So we are very happy to announce a new area in which we hope to find more and more fascinating individuals to photograph and profile.

The Hutong Art Zone centered around No. 46 Fangjia Hutong is Dongcheng District’s answer to 798. It houses art galleries, performance centers, fashion boutiques, and cafés. Xinhua gives the details. Massive Chaoyang District has 798, Caochangdi, and a growing number of other highly commercialized art districts. What Chaoyang lacks is the charm of Beijing’s old city. More compact than Chaoyang’s art districts, 46 Fangjia Hutong is set in a leafy, quiet and historic neighborhood right in the middle of the old city. The Dongcheng District government is committed to encouraging creative industries in a bid to compete against the overwhelming dominance enjoyed by Chaoyang District in this field.

Super VC at Burberry

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Beijing brit-rock band Super VC is a fan of Burberry and enthusiastically welcomes the new store. Burberry Creative Director Christopher Bailey came to Beijing for a single day to attend the opening and I gave him a Stylites pocket square, which he found a bit surprising. In the Jinbao Place Shopping Mall, also home to Gucci, Buttega Veneta, Vertu, and the Swank, mentioned in the post before, this new outlet on Jinbao Street is Burberry’s sixth and largest store in Beijing. Someone evidently has a plan to make Jinbao street into Beijing’s answer to Madison Avenue or Via Spiaggia. Jinbao street also has the Peninsula hotel, and its shopping mall, the Beijing Hong Kong Jockey Club Clubhouse, dealers for Maserati, Ferarri, and Bugatti, as well as the subtly designed Legendale hotel, which could have been the brain-child of Harrod’s owner Mohamed al-Fayed.

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On both sides of the roped-off entry to the shop were standing some spectators from the neighboring hutong. As it turns out, the lady in red crocs worked as a seamstress until retiring in her forties. She doesn’t expect to ever enter the Burberry shop, despite its proximity to her home, but maybe she could get a helping with alterations? I wonder what she thinks of the Legendale.

The Swank lands in Beijing

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Export Manager Mr. Edoardo Simone of Brunello Cucinelli was in Beijing to attend the opening ceremony of Hong Kong’s The Swank, the first retail outlet in the mainland that will be carrying his brand. The Swank opened its first outlet last Friday with a celebration (covered by luxury insider) at the Beijing Hong Kong Jockey Club Clubhouse.

Brands on offer include Isaia, Balmain, Dormeuil, Andrew GN, to name a few. This is, in a sense, only the second major multi-brand high-end retailer to land in Beijing with the first being Lane Crawford, also from Hong Kong. The norm here is free-standing boutiques in large malls, of which there are an ever-growing number. This limits the market to those companies that have the size to finance a major commitment in the form of staff, rent, etc.

This has a couple of effects, which I regard as largely negative. Mainland customers have been up to their ears in Prada, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Gucci, Armani, D&G, Hugo Boss, and other brands that are either part of major fashion groups or, in any case, heavily reliant on marketing. When a good portion of a company’s revenue flows into advertisements and public relations, one cannot be blamed for wondering how much is left for creating high-quality luxury goods.

Whereas Lane Crawford offers many fashion-forward and avant-garde brands, the Swank brings to Beijing relatively smaller Italian companies, like Brunello Cucinelli and Isaia, that invest in the best fabric, craftsmanship, and good working conditions. These cater to a somewhat more mature audience, from around 35 to 55. It will be very interesting to see how these brands perform in China. They are only recognized by a few and do not rely on heavy branding, glossy models, and appeal to the fashion crowd. Judging by the shawl-lapel suit worn by Mr. Simone, the garments do have some style.

Izzue Seeks Amateur Models

Click here for the details.

Also, I am visiting Europe at the moment, so updates will be a little bit sparse for the next few days. Regular daily updates will recompense next Monday, when I return to Beijing.

LEON lands, UFOs at Fashion Week, and other News

The Chinese edition of LEON, published by Rayli Media Group, will launch next week. LEON is a more serious and useful magazine than the current crop of fashion publications available to Chinese gentlemen. It provides useful advice for upwardly mobile 30 to 45-year-olds trying to find their way to looking stylish. Stylites is very happy about the arrival of Leon. a magazine more about style than pushing the latest trend.

At China Fashion Week, designer Jiang Zhou drew inspiration from a recent UFO sighting. Some interesting comments on that at the gadget blog. That designer was part of an International Young Fashion Designer competition for the Hempel Award. Some fun comments on fashion week from the Huffington Post.

In Shanghai Daily, fashion marketing consultant Mark Greiz, of the boxy black shoes, tells Chinese fashion clients to reject the former practice of using foreign words for brand namess, saying that only a Chinese name can bring fast growth with consumers who are increasingly proud of their own country. Key growth is in the second-tier cities.

Hugo Boss plans to prioritize China as its profits plunge elsewhere.

China Fashion Week, Beijing H&M, and Shanghai Barbies

The timing of China Fashion Week was a subject of some debate among my contacts. According to China Apparel Net, it will start,here in Beijing, on March 24. China fashion week has been going for eleven years.

H&M will open one shop this Spring (at Joy City in Xidan) and one this fall. Outside of Beijing, H&M will open three shops in China in 2009 for a total of five new shops this year. Unlike Zara, H&M is staying out of India for the time being.

Mattel opened its House of Barbie Mattel in Shanghai and is looking to the China market to help it recover from a 21% plunge in sales as a result of the slowdown.

Men at Diesel Spring Preview

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On the scene commenters at 798 praised Diesel for the creativity displayed in its new collection. I’m not a fan of the label, but I did find the hats entertaining.

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Will Wu is an editor at Trends Esquire, the flagship men’s magazine of giant Trends Group, China’s leading fashion and lifestyle magazine group that publishes Bazaar, Food and Wine, Cosmopolitan, Men’s Health and countless other publications with names familiar to Western readers. These magazines are entirely owned by the Trends Group and tend to use 50-90% original local content. They merely pay a licensing fee to Hearst and the other publishing groups in the US that own the rights to these publications. Readers should correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the situation is different with Condé Nast publications, Self and Vogue, which are actually part of the global corporate structure. Trends Esquire is expected to have a new competitor in the form of GQ, also from Condé Nast, later in 2009.

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I don’t know that I have ever seen such an unusually cut blazer. I haven’t decided whether or not run out and commission one in tweed today.

Shengzhou: The World’s Tie Capital

Shengzhou, Zhejiang, produces well over 200 million ties annually – almost all of China’s total production and at least three-quarters of the global total. Almost every major Western retailer, from H&M and Next to Ted Baker and Sean John, Walmart to Primark, sources almost the entirety of their ties from this city. Read more in my article from the February issue of China International Business. Here are some more photos that I was lucky to get during my visits to the factories.

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Babei, the largest tie producer in Shengzhou and most likely the world, is also the only factory with an exterior that vaguely suggests the colors of ties. Over 70% of the 20 million ties Babei makes every year are exported.

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Raw silk comes from Sichuan, Jiangsu and other provinces. It comes in a few basic colors. Dyeing – the only part of tie production that has a serious negative impact on the environment – usually occurs on the outskirts of Shengzhou.

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The largest factories in Shengzhou have spinning machines that rotate at high speed 24 hours a day.

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The computer-controlled looms create the fabric that are used to make ties. Just over a decade ago, there were only about ten of these machines in Shengzhou and now there are over a thousand. Babei’s factory has over a hundred – more than entire city of Como, Italy’s tie center. James Kynge, tells the story of Como’s fall and Shengzhou’s rise in his book, China Shakes the World.

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Working conditions seemed quite good in the tie factories I saw. On this Babei’s factory floor, I saw ties from the following brands: Donald Trump, Sean John, Chaps, Austin Reed, Counta Mara, Tasso Elba, C&A, Zara, H&M, Marks and Spencer and Target. There were many other brands that I had not seen before.

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This a large order for a children’s hospital in the United States. Most ties made in Shengzhou use polyester interlinings of the type seen here. Wool is much more expensive, but is better for the best ties.

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Here is a just completed order for China Mobile, the world’s largest mobile phone operator ranked by number of subscribers, with 415 million customers. With 111,998 staff in China, one can see why this is a good client.

The producers of Shengzhou only want to do volume. There is little profit to be had from small orders that demand high quality. Thus, my mission to Shengzhou was not highly successful. The goal had been to find a factory willing to produce ties for Senli and Frye. Strangly enough we have chosen to sell ties that are made in the United States, the Hickey Style line.

Which Cities are Most Interested in Beijing Street Style?

Stylites attempts to profile the most distinctive and/or stylish pedestrians on the streets of Beijing. Google Analytics (it’s such a blast) shows which cities are most interested in this subject. The largest source of hits is Beijing. Next is Shanghai and not too far behind is New York. After that, there is a big gap before Singapore and San Francisco, which are about equal.

1. Beijing

2. Shanghai

3. New York

4. Singapore

5. San Francisco

Just behind are Hong Kong, Chicago, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, London, Hangzhou, and Sydney. Despite great interest from New York, San Francisco, and Chicago, no other US cities produce serious traffic. After China and the United States, the country sending the most viewers is the United Kingdom.

Men’s Style Column Moves to China International Business

Trouser Press, my men’s style column that appeared for nearly two years in The Beijinger (formerly known as That’s BJ), has migrated to China International Business (CIB). The column, now a centerpiece of the “executive living” section of CIB, will focus on the style needs of businessmen who work and live in China. My column for the January issue covers color matching in formal ensembles. The February column tells which ties it behooves every businessman to have in his collection.

Also in the February issue is my overview of the tie industry in Shengzhou, Zhejiang, which I visited last month. Though few Westerners have heard of it, Shengzhou produces well over 200 million ties annually, at least three-quarters of the global total. Most of these are for export. My mission was to find a factory that could produce limited runs of ties for sale at Senli and Frye, here in Beijing.

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These workers are at Babei, the largest tie producer in Shengzhou and probably the world. Working conditions seemed pretty good in all of the factories I visited. Later this month, I will post the article with additional analysis and pictures.

CIB is available in Beijing at Chaterhouse Booktraders at the Place, the Bookworm and Cuckoo Bookshop in the China World Trade Center and in Shanghai at Chaterhouse Booktraders in Super Brand Mall, Shanghai Centre, and Shanghai Times Square.