Congratulations to The Armoury opening a new location in Tribeca, Manhattan. I think Tribeca is quite good from an aesthetic perspective. Beyond the specific products, The Armoury represents a lifestyle and a philosophy. They are traditionalist but also very on target in terms of the tastes of this moment. Their type of the classics is where the mainstream market is headed. The big spending bankers and such are definitely moving in a handcrafted more sartorial direction. Everyone is tired of the flashy logo brands – even people that styleforumers might like to think lack the taste. Most customers in HK have been foreigners based there working in investment banks or corporations, but there is also an increasing flow of Mainland clientele who are mostly interested in buying shoes. Though more spoiled for choice than their HK counterparts, New York men will find brands not available so far in the city and better value for the very top quality than anything else in the market. Mark has scoured the world for products that offer the very highest quality without the silly prices that go with brands like Lobb, Hermes, etc.
I don’t know Tribeca that well, but I can think of two establishments that fit with The Armoury vibe. The Greenwich Hotel, in Tribeca, seems quite well matched. On a much lower price level, the J. Crew’s Liquor Store is in the same vein, at least in the great scheme of things.
For lovers of top-quality, handcrafted classic menswear, The Armoury has been by far the best option in Greater China and perhaps Asia. Owner Mark Cho is doing something that he believes in and his commitment to quality is almost moving. They have quite a range of brands but there are three standouts that generate the most sales. Carmina Shoes are the entry level for high-end shoes, though he offers much more extravagant custom options in all manner of skins. Ring Jacket suits, sport coats and sweaters start include custom designed pieces that are made by this Japanese producer. Drakes Ties and Pocket Squares are the last of their type still produced in central Lonndon.
The point of his store is artisanal and truly handmade, a term that Mark hates but to which he says he is one of the few true adherents. He himself has studied making shoes by hand, so he can tell all the differences between the average goodyear-welted and the good stuff. Mark also cooperates with W. W. Chan tailors on a bespoke offering that is slightly more stylish, fitted, and contemporary that what they offer in their other stores.
