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Find out where to buy cool stuff in Beijing.
While taking the cat to be neutered at the small animal clinic, I thought I might snap some street fashion in a new part of town: Xinjiekou. There weren’t too many denizens who warranted a second glance, but this new shop caught my attention.
It seemed vaguely familiar.
Wielding this interesting bag purchased here in Beijing, Halla is the shopping and travel editor for The Beijinger. The July issue of “The Beijinger” just came out and it includes the full results of the 2008 Reader Bar and Club Awards. The Beijinger is That’s Beijing’s new name. In this Beijinger, as always, you can find the latest Stylites as well as my column on men’s style, Trouser Press.
The sale just started yesterday at Lane Crawford. Get over there before it is too late.
Items are 30% to 50% off. In many cases, this just brings the price down to what it would be at about a 10% discount in the West, but not all of us have time for the trip back.
Unfortunately, my girlfriend wouldn’t let me spend too much time assessing the women’s clothing collections. The shoes on offer are quite nice, if you skip all the cheesy stuff and the rather brutal and strangely geriatric designs of Jil Sander and Dries Van Noten. There was an odd piece – I can’t remember the designer – that looked like a computer chip that wanted to be a samurai. The Miu Miu flats (RMB 1800, after 40% discount) in patent and calfskin are cute and a good shoe – considering the general low quality of women’s footwear – with leather soles and stitching rather than pasting. Hey, I view this from a man’s perspective. I don’t remember the brands, but everything under 1800 seemed to be pasted, rather than stitched. I’m a lover of much of the Alaia line, but there wasn’t too much on sale.
Let’s go to territory I know better. I particularly recommend looking at the men’s shoes, all the more fashion forward brands are on sale and most sizes are still available. They have a well-edited collection. In terms of quality and style this is the best value that can be found in Beijing. There are quite a few goodyear welted, full-grain leather, shoes made in Spain and Italy in the 1500-2500 range, which is not overwhelmingly pricey by international standards. Good for foreigners, size 44 (around a US 11) is available in most sizes, though 45 is rare. Unfortunately, the classic brands such as Santoni, John Lobb, and Church’s are not on sale.
Some of the other shoes are designed exclusively for Lane Crawford, and the quality is very respectable. The styles are fashionable but would not stick out too much in any work place. While not a huge bargain, it is by far the best one you will find in Beijing with such an excellent selection. These are light years beyond the dress shoes in that dreadful little shop – everyone loves it because there’s nothing else – in the Nali Market, which are invariably pasted and in terrible leather. Back to Lane Crawford, steer clear of the well-known designer brands like Paul Smith, Yves Saint Laurent, and Miu Miu; the prices are much higher and the styles are inferior to the Lane Crawford store brands. There are some really kitschy sneakers and sandals from some of those trendy brands like Raf Simons.
Ties are also on sale, and the collection is superior. Big brands like Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood can be had for around 700 and there are some more beautiful, smaller Italian brand ties for 600 or so. Again, this is the best tie selection in the city. The only other shop that comes close is Aleia, in Oriental Plaza.
The clothes are also on sale, but I can’t really convince myself to spring 1500-3000 for a shirt or trousers. There’s just much less work going into these than a good pair of handmade shoes.
Still find Lane Crawford too dear? If you want an even bigger bargain or would prefer not to pay anything at all, I am selling or giving away a good deal of my work and casual wardrobe because I live in a small hutong residence and need some breathing space. I am a size 40L in suits, a 32 waist, and wear a size 44/US11 shoe. Text me at 13910092410, as much of the free stuff will probably be gone by tonight.
To represent our hopes for the futures of the thousands of children whose lives were devastated by the May 12 earthquake, Marzipan, our handmade accesories brand, is releasing a band, tentatively called “heart linkâ€. Half of proceeds will go to the China Children and Teenager’s Fund for relief efforts. Please visit Marzipan to find out more information.
Right now 100% of proceeds from Stylites’ items, a new section of Stylites, will also go toward recovery efforts. Raised so far: 600RMB
Until June two, 10% of any purchase at Senli and Frye, tailoring, will also go toward recovery efforts
If you aren’t a fan of details, you may not be drawn to the designs of Le Divan, based near Xinjiekou in West-Central Beijing. Those who fear new aesthetic norms, imaginative and quirky uses of fabric, and dressing with a sense of drama might also head elsewhere. So, yes, trend-followers who hit Zara seasonally or die-hard preppies, head-to-toe in Brooks Brothers, will probably not end up wearing this coat. On the other hand, the pure lines and quality natural fabrics make most Le Divan pieces “integratable” in a more traditional wardrobe.
Confidently donning an entire ensemble from their studio is a challenge for which few beyond Aurelien Lecour and Tony Hwa, co-founder of Le Divan, have the stylistic panache or slim physique. Le Divan is fortunate that in one area, at least, they can cut costs: with Aurelien on the team, they shouldn’t be needing too many extra models. Nonetheless, I would be happy to offer myself, and be paid in kind – perhaps in the form of this coat, if they start needing the beefier, swarthier types.
When it comes to materials, however, little expense is spared. Most of the fabric is imported from Italy or Japan, but they have also managed to locate some of the best Chinese-made fabrics I have seen. None of the usual cheesy, cheapo polyesters or coarse cottons and linens can be found at Le Divan. The fabric of this coat is a gorgeously nubby 100% silk tweed from Shandong.
The lining is a silk we’re more used to, but they have clearly found sources for interesting patterns that have evaded me thus far. Their garments all feature unique silk linings. They even include the linings in the pockets and other areas. For many people having clothing made in China, the lining is the most fun part, a chance for expressiveness. Silk breathes better and feels nicer than the polyester in most tailor-made and OTR cheap suits, though most silks are not as durable as high quality bemberg rayon. In China, bemberg actually costs more than many silks, though it hardly exists in patterns or interesting colors.
Aurelien and Tony are also creating a line of shoes and bags, of which this is a prototype.
This is just a preview on Le Divan. I will cover the fabrics and designs, plans for the future, and the unique business model more thoroughly in the next couple of weeks.
The address of Le Divan is Xinjiekou Nan Dajie, Baihuashen Chu, 25 (西城区 æ–°è¡—å£å¤§è¡— 百花深处25å·) and the phone number is (+86) 10 66 16 17 59. Their website is www.ledivanstudio.com.
These days the Burberry plaid can only be done well in accents like the roll-up cuff of hot Hannah’s padded jacket. The fitted, herringbone blazer is perfect for Sunday and Chris knows how to pull it off casually. Their individual looks go well with together. The tweed coat worn by Chris is perfect outerwear for fall and even early spring. He had it made at Senli and Frye.
Just to give more of an idea of this coat, here is a photo of me in mine. I was in desperate need of a haircut that day.
Cola has been a frequent star of Stylites. I like the way that he wears sweats with a leather jacket. These two Northeastern boys run the recently expanded Vogue, a menswear boutique on the forth floor of 3.3, a Sanlitun mall. Vogue specializes in “replicas” of Dior Homme, Comme des Garçons, Dolce and Gabbana, and other popular brands.
å¯ä¹ç»å¸¸å‡ºçŽ°åœ¨stylites上。我喜欢他穿è¿åŠ¨è£¤å’Œçš®å¤¹å…‹çš„ä¼‘é—²é£Žæ ¼ã€‚è¿™ä¸¤ä¸ªä¸œåŒ—ç”·å©ç»è¥åœ¨ä¸‰é‡Œå±¯3.3商场四层的Vogue男装精å“店。他们的店é¢æœ€è¿‘扩大了。Vogueçš„ç»è¥ç‰¹è‰²æ˜¯Dior Homme, Comme De Garcons, Dolce and Gabbanaç‰æµè¡Œå“牌的“å¤åˆ¶å“â€ã€‚
Even the Chinese immersed in hip-hop preach its tenets with ferocious dedication. Hip-hop apparel is saturated with its culture, but few local wearers of the style realize this, according to Paco Ou, founder of Bustout, the newest and largest streetwear emporium in Beijing. He seeks to change this with a hand-picked streetwear selection that focuses on authenticity and a mission revolving around education.
With its technicolor print hoodies, genuine special edition sneakers, and one-of-a-kind tee shirts, Bustout will redefine the scene here, remaking the hip-hop man from head to toe, and Paco, 22, has ambitions far greater than just these. He wants the store, among the most airy retail spaces here, to be a platform from which to educate local youth on the origins of hip-hop culture.
Apparently, middle class kids in baggy jeans and over-sized headphones don’t really get the culture. Through events, literature, and his own presence, Paco wants to teach the background of hip-hop and what it means in the Chinese context. Poor kids from the south side of Beijing don’t grow up with drugs and violence, but still must “hustling all day†and have faith in themselves despite the odds, part of what hip hop is about.
To wear the clothes, Chinese kids have to know this story, says Paco. Having worked in apparel since 15, Paco had his share of hustling and he also learned to source the best products, and 80% of which products are exclusive to Bustout. Some standout gear includes Levi’s Jeans (RMB 400-700), particularly raw demin intended for export to Japan, X-Large T-Shirts (RMB 160), Stussy Bandana Print T-shirts (RMB 160). Hoodies are the dominant outerwear with Prohibit (RMB 350), Hollywood Cartel (RMB 460) , 686 (RMB 240), Famous Stars and Stripes RMB 240). His clients will be mainly in the 15 to 25 age range, though a middle-aged policeman who dresses in hip hop style when he gets off work is a regular customers. Paco confesses that the real gangsters in China will never wear hip hop clothing.
Opening Hours: 11am-10pm
东四隆ç¦å¯ºè¡—52-1
Dongsi Longfusi Street, 52-1
Please note that a slightly different version of this piece appeared in the February issue of That’s Beijing.